![]() Koloman is as grand as it is cosy, a dreamy, swish, low-lit setting where everyone looks great but nothing looks as good as their chicken in a copper pot with spaetzle, or the sexiest schnitzel in NYC. Austrian-born chef Markus Glocker’s diamond-cutter level of detail delivers old Europe on the (elegant, emblazoned china) plate in the new world. There isn’t a moment in Koloman – in the room or on the plate – where you wonder where the money went. Koloman is living proof of what spendy Manhattan does best – cramming a room full of electricity and energy, creating a sense of date-night anticipation every night, with no expense spared. Lobster omelette chu chee at Thai Diner, where there's all manner of deliciousness under one roof Koloman Nobody should have the right to house that level of all-day deliciousness under one roof. From early morning egg sandwiches to som tum salad to spicy chopped chicken liver with pineapple, or disco fries – honestly it’s a menu that reads like fusion car crash. Yes to them all – forever diners like La Bonbonniere, my uncooI but beloved Hector’s, the diner-adjacent swish of Russ & Daughters Café – but it’s hard to imagine New York now without Ann Redding’s bamboo jewellery box, Thai Diner. ![]() Sitting in a decent diner in NYC, the Times as my bib for eggs, home fries and diner coffee, is my happy place. Paris is forever, but our nearest neighbour rules for restaurants. NYC remains in flux and Copenhagen keeps the friendliest staff award. Caviar and gold leaf are being thrown around like snuff at a wake. The 2023 restaurant news: old school and French food are still, thankfully, on the rise, as are identikit natural-wine-led bistros.
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